Changing of the Boats

Our explorations of things nautical seem to not flow in a single direction. We were first inspired by our friends Geoff & Aimee, who took us around Corfu on their lovely ketch, whetting our appetite for life on the water.

Geoff & Aimee have this lovely ketch that we got to spend some time on.

Later, we learned of America’s Great Loop, and resolved to make that our first after-retirement adventure. We put our house on the market and made a down payment on a Great Harbor GH37 that failed an oil test during survey, despite being in otherwise impeccable condition. Not wanting a fixer-upper, we bailed (but were happy to hear the boat sold to some lucky looper after the engines were replaced). With the COVID pandemic taking hold, in lieu of full-time cruising, we decided to find a dirt home to rent on the coast of North Carolina.

Not long after arriving in Washington, NC we fell in love with a boat in the marina a short walk from our townhome. We bought Gypsy Blue early in the summer, and what a lovely boat she was! But by late summer we realized she was not great fit for us. All the woodwork, the engines and other system, were lots of work, and the outdoor area on the boat was smaller than we wanted. Worst of all, our experience with a borderline hurricane was stressful because we could not easily pull her out of the water. Gypsy Blue was unscathed, but many others in our marina sustained significant damage and we did not enjoy the stress at all. So, we put her up for sale, and and soon found a new owner who will enjoy giving her the loving care she deserves.

We briefly owned Gypsy Blue, a 28 ft 1985 Rosborough banks cruiser.

We took some time looking around at what might work better for us. We saw lots of boats everywhere we went, from tiny outboards to commercial fishing boats.

Fisherman on the Pasquotank River in Elizabeth City, North Carolina.
Fishing boat docked along the intracoastal waterway, North Carolina.

Finally, we’ve found something that seems to meet most of our current needs. We recently picked up our new boat, a Parker 2120 Sport Cabin. We are calling her “Mud Crab” after an unassuming local crustacean that is overshadowed by the more famous (and delectable!) blue crab and the more distinctive fiddler crab. Mud crabs may not be as well known but they are just as fascinating, and they are common along the shores of local salt marshes.

JoAnn at the boat ramp with our new boat, Mud Crab. Our marina is in the background.

Mud Crab is a terrific vessel for exploring the rivers and towns of eastern North Carolina and beyond. She is equipped for occasional over-nighting and we’ll be able to trailer the boat, allowing us to drive it from place to place as we explore and, as a bonus, avoid having our boat in the water during hurricanes. And no barnacles! In fact, the boat overall should be easy to maintain, leaving more time for things we enjoy. We are especially looking forward to fishing (and eventually, catching fish!). Weather permitting, we’ll be able to do limited offshore fishing just beyond the Outer Banks. In calm weather, we could even make the crossing from Miami to the Bahamas!

Mud Crab has a planning hull and a Yamaha 200 outboard engine, allowing her to go from place to place at speeds far exceeding Gypsy Blue’s stately progress. We can cruise at 25 mph on plane with a relatively economical burn rate of 3.5 mpg. We can also make other choices, like going 40 mph whilst burning lots of fuel, or slowing down to enjoy the view while getting 5 mpg.

Like everyone, we are looking forward to the end of COVID times. Meanwhile, we count ourselves very lucky indeed to have rich opportunities for boating, exploring, kayaking, fishing and relaxing. Autumn in coastal North Carolina is absolutely gorgeous and easy. Temperatures are mild, fall color is prolonged, everything takes its time. We are loving being here where we landed largely by chance.

JoAnn standing up in her kayak trying to recover a fishing bobber from a tree. Outside of Washington, North Carolina.
Catching red drum from a kayak on the Pamlico River.

When does a journey begin?

Does it start when you finally push off from a pier? Does it start as a child, throwing a stick into the current of a river, dreaming your dreams of a nautical voyage until it passes out of sight around the bend? Or is it in between, perhaps when you firm up your plans and commit to the journey, with no going back?

Albemarle Sound, 1913 chart detail

For us, it feels like the journey has begun. We do not yet know which boat will be ours, but we have a plan, albeit one that it is continually shifting in details. We’ve spent many nights and weekends making piles of stuff we thought we needed, but are now ready to shed – to sell, give to friends, or donate. Much smaller is a pile of “stuff that goes on the boat” and a few things to go into storage. We’ve looked at hundreds of boats for online, and have begun to narrow our focus. On trips to the coast, we’ve started wandering through marinas, talking to liveaboards, peeking inside boats when invited to do so, and looking at boats listed for sale. We immerse ourselves in books-Chapman is being read cover to cover-as well as websites, YouTube channels. We ask naive questions on online forums, and later smarter questions. We talk to lots of people, filter through opinions, skim through maritime magazines, browse major marine parts vendors. We lock in on a boat, then pick it apart, later repositioning it on the list. We graph out asking prices versus year for particular boat models. We dissect our financial position and refine our calculations as to what is possible, what is preferable, and what will always be beyond our financial reach. We practice knots, discuss best practices. In the end, we learn, and learn, learn. Our maritime vocabulary expands, we hone our skills in assessing boat condition, and learn about our limits. All of this, it is part of our journey.

So, the journey has already begun. And we are psyched!!